Wednesday, November 12, 2014

Eat, pray, shop...






Chinese fishing nets

Chinese fishing nets

Santa Cruz Basilica

Jewish synagogue

Teapot cafe

Teapot cafe

When wanderlust strikes two shopaholic women, there is no stopping them. Not even a toddler and his mood swings. After all, this girls’ trip was a plan-in-the-making for long and it just had to happen.  
One fine morning, armed with backpacks and a year-old baby, we headed for the fishing town of Fort Kochi for an eat-shop-stroll tour. And the former Portugese settlement proved to be the perfect getaway with its lovely boutiques, dusty antique shops, charming cafes, bungalows, and ancient churches lining old-world streets. 
The historical town of Fort Kochi, now a Kochi suburb, had been occupied by the Portuguese for nearly 160 years. In 1683, the Dutch took possession of the town which they held for 112 years, after which it became a British colony. Decades later, Fort Kochi still manages to retain the aura from an era long gone. 
When we landed at Fort Kochi, it was a muggy afternoon. A heavy lunch and rest later, we were eager to explore. My friend and I had heard so much about the Chinese fishing nets that it had to be our first stop. But to our disappointment, it started raining and we scrambled into an autorickshaw. My friend suggested going around town and stopping at every boutique we spotted. With my baby dozing off, it seemed the wisest thing to do. 
Wanting to travel light, I had decided against carrying a stroller, a decision I regretted as soon as I stepped into Anokhi, on Parade road.  Thankfully, the people at the store were kind enough to make a make-shift bed on a window sill. As my boy slept blissfully, we quickly gathered a pile of bags and stoles. Halts at Tribes India (a government of India initiative to support tribal arts and crafts) and the upmarket Cinnamon later, my boy was up. But he didn’t mind the mindless hours of shopping as it meant being outdoors. 
Just a few metres away, on Peter Celli Road, was Play Clan – the perfect place for those looking for unique knick-knacks, although a bit expensive. I bought a pair of colourful mugs – one for me and one for the man I had left behind home in Chennai. 
Not wanting to exhaust all the shopping on day one, we decided to take a break. We did come back the next day to Neemrana and Fab India. These shops are just a few streets away from each other. So if you are not travelling with infants, walking around would be the best way to savour the place.
Back at the Chinese fishing nets early next morning, we were lucky to catch the fisher-folks trawling the waters with cantilevered nets suspended in mid-air. We were amazed at the dexterity with which they handled the somewhat complex mechanism. We then visited the beautiful Santa Cruz basilica nearby before heading for breakfast at the Tea Bungalow where we were staying. 
A tad overwhelmed by the shopping the previous day, we decided to immerse ourselves in a bit of history at Mattancherry, a short ride from Fort Kochi. This Jewish town houses a really old synagogue of the Malabar Yehudan, built in 1568 on land given by Raja Ravi Varma. In fact, the king’s palace and the synagogue share a common wall. The synagogue still holds service two days a week for the dwindling Jewish population. Melancholy struck us as we marvelled at the blue tiles running across the floors.
The Dutch Palace nearby is a must-visit for those who love their history and art. The murals on the palace walls depict scenes from Hindu mythology, particularly the Ramayana. Slowly fading with time and age, they also seem to narrate untold tales of power, pride, and strive too. 
Jew town is filled with handicraft and antique shops selling everything from teakwood furniture and tiles to brassware and candle-stands. While there is a lot of trash in the name of ‘antique’, one can dig out some real gems too. We bought embroidered t-shirts (from Little Queen Embroidery), miniature race boats, bull-face masks, and of course, spices. 
Whenever we got tired of shopping or the baby felt too heavy, we scurried into quaint cafes that Fort Kochi has in plenty. 
Teapot Café in particular is a delight. Time comes to a standstill here with its slow-paced service. So we had plenty of time to ogle the collection of mugs, teapots and kettles all around (some even hang from the ceiling), sipping cinnamon tea and waiting for the orange cake. 
For traditional Kerala fare, we opted for Malabar House, although we couldn’t get the famed parottas.  But I was ready to overlook this since I was guilt-ridden by the mess my little one had made, crushing papads and strewing rice and stew all over the table. 
Kashi Art Café is where signed off from Fort Kochi the next day with a grand lunch. This place is a favourite among locals and visitors alike for its quirky art installations and a relaxed setting. We vowed to be back some day, as we longingly looked around at the stone tables and pebbled pathways. 







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